Friday, May 21, 2010

Pasta Bolognese


My Mom clipped an article for me, out of a grocery store's magazine, probably late last summer. It was a reader submission section, where one could write a short piece sharing a food related memory. She suggested that I write something and send it in - why not, she said.

It's taken me this long to get around to it. I can be such a fabulous procrastinator when I want to, yes?

Anyway.

I've finally written a piece. And because I waited so long, it doesn't look like the magazine has this reader submitted section anymore. So I'm feeling rather like a balloon that's lost it's air.

Will
you read my article? It's about the Bear, and an exciting milestone he conquered just the other day, and it was all because of some pasta bolognese...

"My son is two and a half years old. He's what some might call 'special needs' or 'challenged'; his main issue is hypopituitarism, which means his body does not produce certain necessary chemicals like yours and mine do.

Due to this deficiency, his development has been somewhat slower than typical kids his age so every milestone is celebrated because it's been achieved, rather than when he achieves it.

When he was born, all the doctors and specialists at the children's hospital insinuated that he would be extremely dependent. Possibly never walking or talking, blindness was a strong possibility and consuming anything other than pureed food wasn't even brought up because it was so far fetched, at that time.

Turns out the specialists were wrong.

Bear is progressing well. Very well, in fact. Yes, he's delayed. We're just fine with that - because he is progressing.

A few days ago the Bear hit a pretty big milestone, in our opinions, anyway. He ate his entire dinner, by himself, with his fingers.

Previously he'd point at his spoon, then at either myself or my husband, communicating that he wanted us to feed him.Not this time. He dug in with both hands and pasta bolognese spread far and wide.

I couldn't have been more excited to see bits of carrot and ground pork on my newly installed hardwood - not to mention every square inch of Bear's face, hair and (thankfully) his dark colored t shirt. I was cheering him on with every meaty handful. He was terribly encouraged by this and joined me in arms-raised excitement.

That pasta bolognese recipe is going down in the memory books as the meal that helped my son reach a long awaited milestone."


Oh! It tasted great too
. Both Matt and I prefer pasta sauces with more of a nod to tomato-y flavor rather than sauces with too much tomato flavor. We feel the tomato sauce should be a binder for the other ingredients, rather than the star of the show. This ragu is perfect for us.

The only adaptation I made to the recipe itself was using cream instead of milk. We also cooled the sauce after its two hour simmer (but before adding the cream) and then refrigerated it overnight - the next day we reheated it slowly and added the cream shortly before serving. Why? The both of us regularly comment on how certain foods taste better the next day and pasta sauce is definitely one of them!

This recipe makes a
lot of ragu. I halved the recipe and had enough sauce to make a big pot of pasta for our dinner, plus leftovers for the Bear and I as well as Matt's lunch the next day - and froze four cups for future meals.

Ragu alla Bolognese
Lemons & Anchovies


2 pounds ground pork

1 pound ground turkey

1 1/2 pounds ground beef

2 - 28 ounce cans crushed tomatoes

1 small can tomato paste

3 ribs celery, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1/2 cup red wine or chicken stock, plus more if necessary

1/4 cup milk

grated Parmesan for serving

salt and pepper to taste

olive oil


Place celery, carrot and onion in a food processor and pulse till finely chopped. Saute the vegetables in olive oil in a large heavy bottomed pan over medium heat for 6-7 minutes. Raise heat to high and add the ground meats. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, breaking up the meats as they cook.


When the meats become a light golden color (approximately 6-8 minutes), add the wine or chicken stock and scrape the bottom of the pan as it deglazes. Cook until the wine has almost reduced then add the tomato paste, tomatoes and more wine or stock if needed. Bring to a boil then simmer about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

Add the milk during the last half hour of cooking.


At this time the sauce will be a medium thick consistency. If it's too dry, add more wine or stock. If it's not thick enough, allow to simmer longer to reduce and thicken.


Serve over your favorite pasta.
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Monday, May 17, 2010

Crock Pot Lasagna


I love, no - I adore lasagna. It's one of my favorite comfort foods.

Two and sometimes three days a week I work till 8pm and have just a half an hour break in which to get things as ready as possible for Matt and the Bear to have dinner. We like meals that I can start simmering, baking or roasting during that half hour break, or ones that can be tossed in the crock pot earlier in the day. When this slow cooker lasagna recipe came up in my Reader, I knew it would make the menu for one of my work days.

This is Matt's favorite lasagna. He chooses this over the more labor intensive recipes I've made in the past, not because it's easier but because he actually likes this one better. It's simple, and it's delicious.

Slow Cooker Lasagna

Delightfully Sweet who adapted it from Kraft Foods

1 lb. ground beef

1 26 ounce jarred or homemade pasta sauce

1 cup water

1 cup cherry tomatoes (halved, optional)

1 15 ounce container ricotta cheese

8 ounces shredded mozzarella

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 egg
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

1 teaspoon pepper

lasagna noodles (uncooked)


Brown meat in large skillet; drain. Stir in sauce and water.

In a separate bowl mix ricotta, 1-1/2 cups mozzarella, 2 tablespoons Parmesan, egg, pepper and parsley.


Spoon approximately 1 cup meat sauce into slow cooker; top with layers of noodles, broken to fit; and cheese mixture. Alternate cheese mixture and meat sauce ending with the meat sauce. Cover with lid.


Cook on low for 4 to 6 hours or until liquid is absorbed. Sprinkle with remaining cheeses; let stand, covered, 10 min. or until melted.


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Monday, April 19, 2010

Maple Roasted Chicken with Sweet Potatoes


We'd purchased a jar of real maple syrup for our we-three Christmas breakfast, as a treat. It's been used a few times since but I wanted to try it in a savory application as well, and this recipe prompted me to do just that.

We really enjoyed all of the contrasting flavors in this recipe. There is sweetness from the maple syrup, the woodsy scent and flavor of the fresh thyme, and coarsely ground sea salt and black pepper to round out the seasonings. The chicken itself is tender and, thanks to the maple syrup, covered in a roasted glaze. Not one of us - not even the Bear - left behind any onions or sweet potatoes; they had been roasted to an almost candy-like perfection.

Maple Roasted Chicken with Sweet Potatoes
Real Simple
Serves 4

3 1/2 to 4 pounds chicken pieces
1 yellow onion, chopped into 1 inch wedges
2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons maple syrup
6 sprigs fresh thyme

Preheat oven to 400F.

Rinse chicken and pat dry. Arrange chicken, onion and sweet potatoes in a baking dish and drizzle with oil. Season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Drizzle with maple syrup and arrange thyme over top.

Roast, stirring the vegetables once, until chicken is cooked through - about and hour and 15 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes before serving.


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Saturday, April 3, 2010

Paska Bread


Easter means paska for my extended family. Paska is a soft and eggy sweet bread similar to brioche. Traditionally it is baked in the round topped with icing and colorful nonpareils (my sister in law does it this way) but we like it spread with a bit of butter and sprinkled with sugar.

Paska Bread
Makes 4 to 5 loaves depending on size

2 packages dry yeast
1 cup lukewarm water
sprinkling of sugar

Dissolve yeast and sugar in water, let sit at least 10 minutes for yeast to develop.

2 cups milk
1/2 cup butter
1 1/2 cups white sugar
1 teaspoon salt
6-8 eggs (depending on size), beaten well
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
6-8 cups flour

Scald milk, add butter and cool to lukewarm. Add sugar to eggs, beat thoroughly and add to warm milk. Add yeast mixture as well as vanilla extract and salt. Add enough flour to make a smooth dough, knead well.

Place dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled (about 2 hours). When dough is light, shape as desired (braid or place in coffee can or honey pot as traditionally done). Let rise again until light (about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours).

Bake at 350 for about 20 minutes. We spread slices with butter and a light sprinkling of sugar.
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Monday, March 29, 2010

Daring Bakers March '10 - Orange Tian


Snuck this one in just under the wire. I'd actually forgotten about it until I saw another Daring Baker post about hers. Panic! I quickly whipped mine up yesterday.

The only change was using a Seville orange marmalade I'd made a short time ago (from Simply Recipes) instead of the marmalade recipe listed below. Seville orange marmalade is truly an acquired taste. I myself don't like it, but Matt, my mother in law and my nephew do. They tell me the bitterness is a trait of Seville orange marmalade; I don't think I'll ever choose it for my toast, though.

Orange Tian. I would make this again but using the method for marmalade as listed in the recipe. Very pretty assembled dessert with numerous components that might turn a few people off the recipe: pâte sablée (a cookie, put simply) for the base; also an orange marmalade, caramel sauce and whipped cream. All of the components could be prepared ahead of time, however, and assembled shortly before serving.

Both Matt and I enjoyed this dessert. It's very refreshing, light, and clean tasting. Absolutely stunning visually, and because it's assembled as individual servings, it would make for a perfect ending to a lunch or dinner party.


Orange Tian
Alain Ducasse's Cooking School of Paris

Makes 6 individual desserts


Pâte Sablée

2 medium egg yolks at room temperature
6 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, ice cold and cubed

1/3 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon baking powder


Marmalade

1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

1 large orange for orange slices

cold water

5 grams pectin

granulated sugar: the same weight as the weight of the orange slices once cooked


Orange Segments

8 large oranges


Caramel

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons orange juice


Whipped Cream

1 cup heavy whipping cream

3 tablespoons hot water

1 teaspoon gelatin

1 tablespoon icing sugar

1 tablespoon orange marmalade


For the pâte sablée: put the flour, baking powder, butter and salt into a food processor.
In a separate bowl, add the egg yolks, vanilla and sugar and beat with whisk until mixture is pale. Pour egg mixture into the flour mixture in the food processor. Process this combined mixture until the dough just comes together. If the dough is too crumbly, add a few drops of water and process until dough forms a ball. Shape into a disc, cover with plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes in refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 350F.


Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to 1/4 inch thick circle.
Using the same size cookie cutter as your molds will be, cut out circles of dough and place on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes or until cookies are golden.

For the marmalade: finely slice the orange. Place the orange slices in a medium sized pot filled with cold water. Simmer 10 minutes. Discard the water and refill with fresh cold water. Blanch another 10 minutes. Repeat 3 times, changing the water each time. This process removes the bitterness from the orange peel.
Once blanched, drain slices and let cool. Once cooled, mince finely. Weigh the slices and measure out the same amount of granulated sugar.

In a pot over medium heat, add the orange slices, sugar, orange juice and the pectin. Cook until the mixture reaches a jam consistency, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set in refrigerator.

For the orange segments: cut the oranges into segments over a shallow bowl and reserve the juice. Add segments to the bowl with the juice. Learn how to segment an orange over at Suitable For Consumption.


For the caramel: place the sugar in a pan over medium heat.
Once the sugar begins to bubble and foam, slowly add the orange juice. As soon as the mixture starts boiling, remove from the heat and pour half the mixture over the orange segments.Reserve the other half of the caramel mixture to be spooned over assembled dessert.

For the whipped cream: in a small bowl, add the gelatin and hot water, stirring well until the gelatin dissolves. Let the gelatin mixture cool to room temperature while making the whipped cream.


Combine the cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Whip the cream using a mixer on low speed until the cream starts to thicken. Add icing sugar. Increase the speed to medium high and whip till the beaters leave visible but not lasting trails in the cream.
Add the cooled gelatin slowly while beating continuously. Continue whipping until the cream is light, fluffy and forms soft peaks. Transfer to a bowl and fold in orange marmalade.

To assemble: ensure you have room in your freezer for a small baking sheet of desserts.
Line a small tray or baking sheet with parchment. Lay out 6 cookie cutters or molds onto the sheet. Drain orange segments on towels. Have marmalade, whipped cream and baked pâte sablée ready to use.

Arrange orange segments at the bottom of each cookie cutter or mold. Arrange snugly, how you would arrange slices apples for a tart. This will be the top of your dessert so ensure it is decorative.


Top the orange segments with two spoonfuls of whipped cream and spread gently so it fills the cookie cutter or mold in an even layer. Leave 1/4 inch at the top for the pâte sablée.


Spread a small amount of orange marmalade evenly on each pâte sablée and carefully place that side onto the whipped cream, pressing gently to compact.
Place desserts into freezer to set for 10 minutes.

Run a small knife around each cookie cutter or mold to ensure the dessert will unmold easily. Place a serving plate on top of each dessert and flip over. Carefully remove the cookie cutter and add a spoonful of warmed caramel sauce. Serve immediately.




The 2010 March Daring Baker’s challenge was hosted by Jennifer of Chocolate Shavings. She chose Orange Tian as the challenge for this month, a dessert based on a recipe from Alain Ducasse’s Cooking School in Paris.

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Monday, March 22, 2010

NYT Jacques Torres Chocolate Chip Cookies


Run, do not walk, run to the store and purchase any ingredients you may need to make these cookies. You'll have to wait at least 24 hours before baking them but the sooner you get started, the sooner you can blow your mind with what I think is finally, finally the ultimate chocolate chip cookie.

They
look exactly how I've always imagined my chocolate chip cookies to look. And they taste exactly how I've always imagined they should taste . Oh good heavens. Seriously. Just chewy enough thanks to the bread and cake flours plus the requisite chill time; they have the right amount of crispness around the edges and the dark chocolate disks rather than chips? Perfection.


NYT Chocolate Chip Cookies
New York Times
Makes 1 1/2 dozen 5-inch cookies

2 cups minus 2 tablespoons cake flour
1 2/3 cups bread flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
1 1/4 cups unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups light brown sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla
1 1/4 pounds dark chocolate disks

Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside. Using a mixer (hand or stand), cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Do not skimp on the beating time. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the vanilla. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients. Mix until just combined. Drop in chocolate and incorporate without breaking pieces.

Press plastic wrap against the dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. The dough can also be used in batches at that point, keeping the remaining dough refrigerated up to 72 hours. To bake, preheat oven to 350F. Line a baking sheet with parchment or Silpat and set aside. Scoop generous golf ball sized mounds onto the baking sheet, making sure to turn any poking up chocolate pieces on the horizontal - this makes for a more attractive looking cookie.

Bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Rotate baking sheet halfway through baking time. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes then transfer cookies to the wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with remaining dough. Eat warm, at room temperature or even frozen.


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